Minestra

I learned about this dish years ago from my friend and longtime barber Italo DeMasi of the landmark Bruno's Barber Shop in Natick.  His stories about Calabrian food invariably send me home with ideas, but it all started here.  More than just a recipe, Minestra is a manifestation of an approach to living.  That philosophy is waste nothing, and it speaks to my soul.  This version uses kale, but it could easily leverage collards, bok choi, or cabbage.  One of my favorite variations uses broccoli leaves - you know, the leaves that many people discard. 

This go-to dish shows up at least once a week at our dinner table.  It's hearty enough to serve as a main dish, although it pairs beautifully with something off the grill.  

Prep time:  10 minutes
Cook time:  15 minutes
Serves:  4 as a side dish

INGREDIENTS

3-4 tablespoons olive oil

1 bunch kale, stems separated and cut into 1/4" sections, leaves coarsely chopped
3 cloves garlic, crushed
1 can (15 ounces) cannellini beans, with liquid (or equivalent prepared dry beans)
Parmesan cheese

Salt
Pepper

DIRECTIONS
Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan or skillet over medium heat and cook the kale stems and garlic, stirring, for 4 minutes.  Add the kale leaves, cover, turn heat to medium-low, and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.  Add the cannellini beans with their liquid, and continue to cook until kale leaves and stems reach the degree of tenderness you like.

Serve sprinkled with shredded Parmesan, salt and pepper.

A version made with broccoli florets:

White Beans with Sautéed Onions and Arugula

Having just enjoyed this for breakfast, I can safely say this simple, satisfying dish could be tasty any time of day.

Prep time: 5 minutes (not including bean prep time!)
Cook time: 12 minutes
Serves:  2+ as a side dish

INGREDIENTS
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, crushed, or the equivalent thinly sliced fresh garlic
1 small onion, thinly sliced (about 1/2 cup)
2 cups prepared white beans (or one 15 ounce can cannellini beans, drained)
1 cup fresh arugula, chopped
Salt
Pepper

DIRECTIONS
Heat the olive oil in a small skillet over medium-low heat and sauté the onions and garlic, stirring, for 8-10 minutes or until onions are soft and slightly browned. Add the white beans and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes or until mixture is hot. Scoop to serving bowls or plates, top with arugula and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Another drizzle of olive oil completes the picture.

Note: I used Rancho Gordo "White Tepary" beans for this.

Photo and recipe by Tod Dimmick

Chili with Tomatoes 3 Ways

This rich version of classic chili features extracted tomato flavors.  The heat is mid range, add more or less cayenne and cumin according to your taste.

Prep time:  20 minutes
Cook time:  45 minutes
Serves:  8

INGREDIENTS
2 pounds ground beef
1 large onion, 1/4 inch dice
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 large sweet bell pepper, cut into 1/4 inch pieces
3 cups tomato sauce
1/2 cup oven dried tomatoes
1/3 cup puree of oven dried tomatoes
2 teaspoons ground cayenne
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons Mexican oregano
3 cups (or 2 15 ounce cans) prepared beans
1 1/2 cups (or one 15 ounce can) refried beans
1 teaspoon salt

DIRECTIONS
Heat a large saute pan or stock pot over medium heat and cook the ground beef, onion and garlic, stirring, for 5 minutes.  Add the red pepper and continue to cook for another 5 minutes or until ground beef is cooked.

Add the tomato sauce, puree of oven dried tomatoes, cayenne, cumin, oregano, kidney beans, refried beans, and salt.  Stir to completely mix, then turn heat to medium low, cover, and cook, stirring every few minutes, for 30 minutes or until gently bubbling throughout. 

Serve with fresh cornbread, and laugh at the cold weather outside.

Variations:  Use fresh hot peppers in place of the ground cayenne.  Use ancho peppers in place of the sweet peppers.

Photo and recipe by Tod Dimmick

New England Cassoulet

Like chili, the definition of cassoulet inspires passionate debate.  For this version, I focused on readily available ingredients.  While there's no duck under the hood,  you'll find plenty of rich flavor in this "New England" homage to the classic dish.  The vegetables are cooked separately and combined at the last minute to preserve their independent flavors.

Prep time 30 minutes

Cook time 40 minutes (if beans are prepared and ready to use)

Serves 8-10

INGREDIENTS

6 cups prepared white beans, such as cannellini, flageolet, or great northern* 

2-3 cups vegetable or chicken broth

1 pound ground sweet Italian sausage

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1 teaspoon dried rosemary

1 teaspoon dried sage

2 tablespoons butter

6 tablespoons olive oil, separated

2 cups pearl onions or coarsely chopped onions
3 cups carrots, 1/4 inch dice

1 cup sliced spicy sausage, such as andouille or chorizo

1/4 cup purée of oven dried tomatoes, or tomato paste

Salt to taste

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

DIRECTIONS

Heat beans in stock pot with two cups broth to a bare simmer.  The objective here is not to cook the beans, but to make them hot for use when the other components are ready.  Reserve the remaining stock to use later if your cassoulet needs the moisture.

While beans are simmering, heat a large saute pan or skillet over medium heat and cook the sausage, garlic, rosemary, and sage, stirring, for 10 minutes or until done.  Scrape sausage in to a bowl to free up your saute pan.

Melt the butter and 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in the saute pan over medium heat, and add the onions.  Cook for 4 minutes, stirring.  Add 1/2 inch water in the saute pan, taking care not to splatter yourself.  Cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until onions are soft and sweet. Scrape onions and their liquid in to a bowl separate from the sausage.

Heat the olive oil in the saute pan over medium heat and saute the carrots for 4 minutes, stirring.  Carefully add 1/2 inch of water to the skillet.  Bring water to a simmer and cook the carrots for a further 4-5 minutes, or until carrots are just tender crisp. 

Add the sausage to the beans in the stock pot.  With a slotted spoon, add the onions and carrots, reserving the cooking liquid.  Add hot sausage and tomato purée.  Now, add enough onion and carrot cooking water, and the reserved broth, to create a thick stew (this is a matter of taste, I usually add all of the liquid because I love the flavor and the soupy consistency).  Heat to a simmer, stirring.  Serve, seasoning to taste with salt and pepper.

*If you want to get really serious, Cassoulet Beans (Tarbais Beans) are available through specialty food suppliers, such as Rancho Gordo.

Tip:  If you have multiple skillets or sauté pans and like the challenge of multitasking, you can prepare the sausage, carrots and onions in parallel.  Or, if you have the time and want to minimize the mess, follow the procedure above and cook each component ingredient in turn.

Photo and Recipe by Tod Dimmick

Sauteed Broccoli with White Beans

Photo and Recipe by Tod Dimmick










Versatile broccoli starts in the spring, and then keeps on going throughout the growing season. The plant is a culinary marvel - the leaves, the stems, and of course the crowns, can all be enjoyed in many ways. This version features fresh broccoli, cooked tender crisp in garlic and olive oil, and tossed with white beans.

Prep time: 5 minutes
Cook time: 10 minutes

Serves: 4 as a side dish

INGREDIENTS
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, crushed (or more if you like garlic)
1 large head broccoli (about 1 pound), broken into florets, coarsely chopped
1 can (15 oz) Cannellini beans
Shredded Parmesan
Salt and pepper to taste

DIRECTIONS
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat and saute the garlic, stirring, for 2 minutes or until the garlic begins to turn tan. Add the broccoli and cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes or until the florets are tender crisp. Add the Cannellini beans and their liquid and heat for a minute, stirring.

Distribute to serving plates, top with Parmesan cheese, and season to taste with salt and pepper.